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I’ve had this vision of the perfect jacket for a long time but never executed it. Until now.
For this hack I sized up for a comfy fit in a 14 oz French Terry from LDG Textiles. The hood and body was lined in a delicious over-sized floral DBP print from Pretty Posh Prints AND I encased the seams to make it ultra comfy and polished.
I wanted the hood over-sized so I used the hood piece from the Summit Peak Hoodie and smoothed out the edges. To make the neckline on the body match the one on the hood I extended the front center edge by 1″. This also will allow me to overlap the front and add a closure. *I never ended up adding one because I love it as is!
Curved hems are pretty much life so I had to include that in my dream jacket too! I lengthened the back hem on the Vermont 2″ (in white) and gently curved the front to where I wanted it to hit on my body. Once I had these pieces cut I used them as patterns for the lining.
For the pockets I used the TAMI Hoodie Kangaroo Pocket with some KAM snaps! That’s all the modifications I made for this gorgeous jacket, let’s get started:
We’ll begin with the pockets. Sew the pieces right sides together around 4 sides leaving the long horizontal edge open to turn. I serged mine, but I’d recommend sewing it so it’s not as bulky. Clip the corners to further remove bulk. Add interfacing to the main piece where you want the snap. Turn and top-stitch the pieces and add snaps. I top-stitched first so I didn’t have to work around the snaps.
Place pockets on their coordinating body piece and pin into place. Top-stitch into place on 3 sides, avoiding the opening where the snap is and the edge. Since I curved the hem on this cardigan the pockets don’t line up so I trimmed them to match the curve.
The main body and lining are sewn individually. Serge the shoulders on each set with right sides together then add the appropriate hood and serge. Leave a 6-8″ gap in the hood lining at the neck seam to turn your project at the end.
Next, pin/clip the sleeve to the main body right sides together as usual, then add the lining. So they would be layered in this order: main body right side up, sleeve right side down, lining right side down. I like to sew one side at a time so they don’t get twisted. Boom! Enclosed seams!
After both arms are attached serge the main sleeve and body right sides together, taking care to move/pull the lining out of the way. Next, serge the lining body right sides together, stopping at the armpit.
I initially didn’t cut any bands because I needed to measure the circumference of the new hem including the hood. Starting with the back curve from side seam to side seam, measure and minus 1″ and add seam allowance. Next I measure the side from bottom side seam up to the center hood seam, again minus 1″ and add seam allowance.
Cut 1 short band (bottom back) and 2 long ones (sides,) I cut mine at 4.25″ width. Serge them together as follows: long, short, long. Do not sew the long ones together forming a circle! Ask me why and how I know 😉
I like to clip the band in advance (wrong sides together) to make attaching it easier. Starting with the main bottom hem clip your band in place at each side seam and gently stretch to fit. In a 1:1 ratio continue clipping your band around the front curve and stop at the hood seam. Flip your cardigan so the wrong side of the main is facing down and the lining is right side down lining them up. Add the lining into the clips already holding the main and band. Serge down and around from hood seam to hood seam.I had to unpick the top seam on my band to get it untwisted and out from under the sleeves. That’s why I didn’t have you sew the loop together! Anyway, proceed with attaching the band exactly as before, stretching slightly to fit.
Pull your cardigan through the hole left in the hood lining. Ladder stitch or top-stitch the lining hole closed and you’re done!!
This is absolute most favorite make to date! What’s yours? I hope you found this tutorial helpful, let me know in the comments how easy it was!